County Kerry, Ireland
Islands, rugged roads and the wild Atlantic
A sweeping view of Kerry’s coastline from the road near Caherdaniel
They call it the Emerald Isle for its lustrous pastures, but to County Kerry in south-west Ireland you can add slate blue, sludge grey and pale sand to the colour palate. It takes a while to get accustomed to the moody, almost prehistoric landscape of this peninsula. After a few days, though, the wide skies, rugged hills and beautiful coastline will soothe your eyes and soul.
A really enjoyable way to see the county is to drive around the Ring of Kerry, stopping off to explore wherever you fancy – at a sandy cove, hillside walk or bustling little town with pubs, shops and historical attractions.
Bronze Age stone circle at Kenmare
From pretty Kenmare the coast road takes you through Catherdaniel, the site of Daniel O’Connell’s country house, on towards Waterville, with stunning views of the islands and the coast. Hiking routes are marked to the side of the road and cyclists take on the switchbacks with glee. The coast opens out before you and from The Smuggler’s Inn it’s a panorama of stretching hills, tumbledown abbeys, a long, sandy beach and the wide, wild Atlantic.
Looking across the bay from The Smuggler’s Inn, Waterville
Skellig Michael: a bucket-list trip
From Port Magee you can take a boat trip to Skellig Michael, an island 12km offshore with the remains of a seventh-century monastery high up on a plateau, accessible via a steep mountain path. It’s also a Star Wars location, so many Jedis make the tour (some in full costume!). Be warned: the voyage can be rough and the walk up treacherous but it’s worth it to see the surviving stone beehive huts of the monastery, the colonies of puffins and gannets, and to gaze out at the futuristic Little Skellig island sitting in the dark blue ocean. This is a truly memorable trip.
Skellig Michael was a location in Star Wars: The Force Awakens and Star Wars: The Last Jedi
Entrance to the former monastery high up on Skellig Michael with Little Skellig in the distance
Another delightful hour and a half’s drive will take you further round the Dingle Peninsula to Killarney, where there’s plenty to see including medieval Ross Castle, Muckross Abbey and Killarney House and Gardens, with its long green lawns stretching to the lough.
Killarney House
Don’t miss the detour to the Gap of Dunloe: this was my favourite place in Kerry, a mountain pass that winds through soaring purple bracken-covered hills, a truly romantic, inspiring sight. You can walk up the road or take a pony and trap, or plan a proper circular hike around the peaks surrounding. The views back to Killarney and through the Gap to the other side are magical.
The Purple Mountain and the road winding through the Gap of Dunloe
The seafood in this part of Ireland is amazing – lobster, sea bass, monkfish, all on the menu. Everywhere, the Irish people are friendly, funny and welcoming. In the pubs in Waterville on a Friday night locals gather young and old, from hen-night girls to grandfathers, and there’s always live music and singing, plus heated discussion of the football, rugby and horses. It feels like a real community, open to everyone to join in. That’s the spirit of Kerry.